Winter dress

bow detail
I made a winter dress for work. It's a 100% wool twill, which ended up beeing much stretchier than I had realized so it took quite a lot of tweaking. I also added this cute ribbon and bow detail, since it's an otherwise very simple dress.

More photos and details here if you're interested.

I knew that the fit would make or break the dress and I still have a lot to learn about fitting. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out but my sleeves are still not perfect. 

I interfaced the hem. Have you tried this technique? I've posted a tutorial here.

Cross-posted to advancedsewing and sew_hip

New Blog, Baby!

I started another blog! Not entirely sure why. I mostly just post for myself to keep track of what I've made and what online resources I used.

I just really wanted to use Google blogger instead of livejournal, because it seems like there's more of a community of sewing bloggers out there, rather than in here.

Anyway, for anyone whose interested, my new blog, Wardrobe Dysfunction is here.

Wait, that's a stupid name for a blog, isn't it? I just...I have a complicated relationship with clothes.

Five and a half waistbands later...I have linen trousers

OK, in fairness, I lost track after three and a half.


You definitely can't tell by the expression on my face but these pants are so comfortable! Made with a lovely soft linen.

Making them sure wasn't comfortable, though. Maybe it's because I've been biking so much but I really struggled with the fit on these and I used three different self-drafted contoured waistbands before I got the right fit. I'm like the Goldilocks of contoured waistbands.

It doesn't help that I actually made my first version before I found this amazing tutorial on how to add structure to the waistband. With the contouring, I ended up with some bias-y stuff going on and getting stretched out. There were also some unpleasant times where the back seam seemed to be trying to crawl between my butt cheeks. Thank God that's fixed!

I really wish I had pics of the insides, because I'm really proud of the finishing on these. I flat felled the inseam, french seamed the outer leg seam and put bias binding on everything else. Pretty snappy!

Too bad the weather has really turned now, and I probably won't have a chance to wear them again until the spring.

She Sells Sea Shells


I can't tell if I like this shirt or not. I saw this fabric and bought it spontaniously, which I never do. I found the 1 piece Kimono Tee on Burda style. I ended up altering it to be two pattern pieces so I could cut the fabric on the bias.

Oh yeah, this was the first time working with something on the bias that was more than just bias strip.

I read about a million articles and posts that all seemed to contradict each other and then just did whatever I wanted. This fabric ended up beaing really easy to work with, for which I am grateful, but which has me suspecting that the fabric is not 100% cotton as the person in the store said it is.

Anyway, french seams on the sides, stay tape in the shoulder seams, a little bias tape on the neck and voila!

I made this as part of my surefire summer sewing plan. It ended up being a little more casual than I had hoped. I'm going to really have to get my ass in gear about making some shirts that are good for work.


Oxford Shirt

Yep, I'm about to clutch my pearls in this pic. 

Look how cute this shirt is! I was originally going to make a stark white shirt but I'm glad I ended up going with a little blue stripe. So much more preppy/ivy league than business formal.

I'm not usually one for lots of volume but I really like this paired with a pencil skirt to balance it out. Next time I make a shirt I'm going to figure out how to do a better placket on the cuff vent. This pattern just has bias binding and it looks a little homemade.

Good thing I always have my cuffs rolled up.


Linen Heidi with Piping

Linen Heidi! I've already gotten so much use out of this dress it's ridiculous. I was thinking about replacing the pleats with piped princess seams but I knew I needed to keep thing simple. As it is, the piping that I did add was pretty time comsuming but turned out well. I used posts from Diary of a Sewing Fanatic and Pattern, Scisors, Cloth to help make the piping happen.

The dress is 100% linen with a cotton gauze lining because there's nothing I hate more than I slippery lining in the summer time.


I have a complicated relationship with pants

Cropped Pants

I'm pretty happy with how these pants turned out and I like how they look in the mirror but I feel like the pants look terrible in photos and so do I. I know I have a difficult figure for pants, but I just love a little cropped pant so I'm going to ignore the fact that the fit isn't perfect and they're not the most flattering style for me and wear these like crazy. And every time I wear them I'm going to obsess about how I can make them fit better.

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This pattern is still a little baggy at the back of the thigh. One pattern drafting tutorial I read said that the inseam of the back piece should be 1-1.5 cm shorter from crotch to knee than the inseam length of the front piece, and that you have to stretch the back piece from the crotch to the knee as you sew for a better fit. This is the first I've heard of this. Can someone weigh in? Does this work with stretch and non-stretch fabric alike?

Summer Wardrobe - Ikat Dress

Gah! Matt changed the settings on the camera to a different file format and converting them makes them ugly.

My dress is pretty fab, though.

I added in-seam pockets and a lining and enclosed the elastic between the self and the lining. I can throw it in the wash and it's as comfortable as wearing pajamas, so I imagine this will get a lot of wear this summer.

One down, five to go!